It will gray within months. Must be tinted. Also, Thompsons is a poor product. This is to rehab an aging playground structure at a daycare center. Work will be done on weekend but needs to dry quickly to be ready for the kids on Monday.
Needs to be oil based. Seattle area. PS thanks for your awesome reviews. I used TWP on my deck four years ago, based on your reviews, and it has been holding up great! I have a 10 x 20 deck that is about 1 year old. I got an estimate for cleaning and staining for approx. Seems pretty high but that could depend on your area and condition of the wood. Post a picture of the deck. So my deck is less than 1 year old.
What do you recommend? Sorry, just confused about what needs to be done to preserve the deck. Reply Angela 2 years ago new deck pressure treated wood. Will a sealer be sufficient to preserve if we want the wood to gray naturally? We live in seattle area. Every time we have had a stained deck it always would bubble or peel over time and not hold up well. Staining A New Deck 4. Penetrating stains will not peel or bubble:. A clear sealer will provide some protection from water and mildew but will not prevent UV graying.
We applied a fresh coat each year until The floor and top rails had turned black. I assume it is mildew. We are now sanding the deck. Do we need to sand everything before restaining, or can we just sand the bad areas and use the penofin again?
Thie black is a result of the Penofin. It always does this and is why we do not use is it and consumers are constantly complaining about it. I live in Chicago area and moved into a house where the siding, deck rails and the deck were all painted the same color. Deck looks like treated wood, partial shade and mildew issues on the edges. Are these good choices? Can you recommend a stain for me to use? Do I need to sand the deck before staining?
That is a solid stain and most likely cannot be removed fully with a stain stripper. To remove and use a semi-transparent, you will need to sand this off. If you prefer not to sand, then you will need to use another solid stain to cover this. What you decide to do for the prep depends on the brand and type of stain to suggest. For over 10 years, I have been using a pigmented wood sealer on my cedar deck. The product is ADM with a Pecan color. I have been very satisfied with the product, but apparently the company that makes it is no longer in business.
Unfortunately, you have not choice but to strip. You cannot apply a stain over a different brand on top and expect that it will penetrate and or adhere. Do you know a Contractor in the Kansas City area? I want to use your advice, but cannot locate a Dealer. Reply Sue 4 years ago A contractor I hired applied an oil based stain on my new deck last year.
The application went terribly wrong and it never fully cured in areas and remained tacky and dirt stuck to it. The contractor tried power washing and it lifted the stain off in areas. Also, what kind of stain is best to use. We live in the Pacific Northwest so the deck is exposed to a lot of rain. I have put semi transparent classic oil finish arborcoat on a piece of outdoor furniture. Do I need to put a sealer on top of it? Would it be good to put oil on it later in the season?
So I should decided to seal OR stain my fence, not both, correct? And that is true with water or oil based products? Best Deck Stain and Sealer How Long Should you Wait to Stain a The Best Deck Stains in What is the Best Deck Stain? Deck Stains in Staining A New Deck. Be sure to apply sealant as soon as the wood is ready; leaving the deck exposed any longer increases the likelihood of both ultraviolet UV and moisture damage. Bottom line: A combined stain-and-sealant product offers durable, moisture- and UV-protection with the least drawbacks.
In lieu of that, you can apply a simple stain to the deck and, after 48 hours, apply sealant for a similar level of protection. Proper prep is key to successfully sealing a deck. Then, wash the deck using a power-washer to scrub the surface clean.
Allow to dry for 24 hours, then sand the surface with between a 60 to grit sandpaper or sanding disk. Use a powered sanding tool to remove the top layer of wood, which could act as a barrier to the sealant.
On a previously stained deck, also be sure to sand the entire surface—areas where the sealant has worn away as well as those that still have moisture protection intact.
This moisture protection would prevent new sealant from being absorbed, so sand evenly to ensure a clean, bare surface. Finally, sweep or vacuum thoroughly. Even a brand new deck will need at least a brief washing and drying to banish any dirt and grime accumulated during the initial 30 drying period. At worst, the sealant will bead up on the water and fail to be absorbed, creating a messy, dangerous slipping hazard. Always allow the surface to dry for at least 24 hours after a rainfall before sealing a deck.
For the best results with deck stains, the wood should be completely cleaned and dry. Deck stains on horizontal surfaces will need to be reapplied more frequently than those on vertical surfaces. A deck sealer is a clear or slightly tinted water or oil-based product. It soaks into the wood grain, sealing it to prevent moisture damage, mold, mildew, and rot. Additionally, some products have additives to protect against UV rays and sun damage.
Sealing a deck is best for cedar, teak, mahogany, or other quality woods as it enhances the wood grain and natural color. Staining a deck protects the wood from mold, mildew, moisture, and rot, and UV rays and sun damage.
The stain is available in transparent, semi-transparent, semi-opaque, and solid colors. The thicker the color, the more UV protection it provides. Staining also makes the wood grain less visible, which is ideal for protecting spruce, pine, fir, plywood, OSB decks, fences, and other surfaces. Untreated and pressure-treated wood that is exposed to the elements will dry out, crack, split, twist, and discolor.
Some wood has natural oils that protect them and will last a bit longer. Once the wood dries out, it is easy for insects, mold, and mildew to damage the wood. The dry wood is also susceptible to moisture damage and rot. The longer you wait to seal or stain your deck, the more damage to your investment. Sprinkling a small amount of water on the wood is a good way to check if it is ready to be sealed or stained. Wood that absorbs water will absorb stain or sealer for a better bond.
Sealing helps to maintain the color and smooth surface of the wood. New decks constructed of pressure-treated or SPF timber should be stained or sealed as soon as the water stops beading. Staining a new deck will provide a more uniform color or tone to the wood, while sealing will help maintain the natural color. However, wood that is sealed will still fade over time but will continue to show the natural wood grain. The stain will protect the wood the same as the sealer. Adding stain over the sealer will have the same results.
0コメント